Don McGrath is the author of Vertical Mind and an expert on mental training for climbing. We talked about the two simple diet changes he made to get back in shape in his 60s, our untapped potential in mental training, debunking and rewriting unhelpful scripts, how to tackle fear of falling and fear of failure, pre-climb rituals, how to use your climbing partner as a coach, how to stay in love with climbing as we age, duct tape and baling wire, embracing the suck, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/don-mcgrathNuggets:0:03:56 – The love/hate relationship to climbing in Rifle and Smith Rock0:07:49 – Living in Colorado Springs, spending the winter in the gym, and working with a coach0:08:52 – The two simple diet changes Don made to lose his “60-year-old belly”0:10:56 – Increasing his climbing volume, getting on harder routes in the gym, and the accountability of a coach0:12:31 – Whiskey time, habits, and alcohol substitutes0:16:16 – Turning 60, being retired, and setting the goal of climbing 5.12+/13- (7c/+) again after a decade0:18:07 – Don’s coach Kevin Branford0:20:40 – Don’s introduction to climbing, and how he became interested in writing and mental training0:27:27 – Shame Theory, and Fear of Failure0:30:43 – How the mental aspect of training is overlooked, and diving into movement, emotions, and thoughts0:34:03 – How to tackle fear of falling, scripts, working on one thing at a time, and the arsenal of uneventful falls0:39:16 – The story of the woman in The Gunks, and understanding irrational fear0:42:29 – Debunking scripts0:45:40 – The script that was holding Don back when he was one-hanging routes in Rifle0:47:49 – Don’s mantra, and “one move at a time”0:52:20 – Pre-climb ritual0:56:38 – Don’s first breakthrough with his mental game0:58:11 – Most common unproductive scripts1:04:23 – The best piece of onsighting advice I’ve gotten1:05:25 – Opening and closing your focus1:08:53 – What musical instruments and karate have to do with climbing1:10:30 – Warmups as a big missed opportunity1:13:56 – Cocreative coaching with your climbing partner1:17:43 – Shoulds elicit a shame response1:21:02 – Recommendations for couples who are also climbing partners1:23:25 – The area of mental game that I’ve been focused on, more about scripts, and breaking into new grades1:29:32 – Patron question from Gromstoph: Do you have any strategies for getting comfortable on a route more quickly?1:33:05 – “Just go find out.”1:37:29 – Patron question from Caden: Are there any ways to practice commitment with new moves when doing new climbs?1:40:37 – Main takeaway about mental training1:41:24 – How to love your sport as you age, play, and innovate1:46:24 – Why climbing is unique1:48:06 – Duct tape and baling wire1:49:40 – Don’s advice for those of us in our 20s and 30s1:51:52 – Socio-behavioral changes, and employing winning tactics1:54:28 – Don’s book The Climb1:56:38 – What’s the next book?1:57:15 – Don’s writing practice, and how a book develops a life of its own1:59:01 – Advice from Les Brown: “Every point should have a story, and every story should have a point.”2:00:41 – Have fun, enjoy the process, and embrace the suck2:03:30 – Getting inspiration from watching kids2:04:53 – Inspiration from good coaches, and the book Running With the Buffalo2:06:25 – What’s next?2:07:23 – Wrap up, and how to connect with Don

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

EP 168: Don McGrath — Rewriting Unhelpful Scripts, How to Tackle Fear of Falling, and Playing as We Age

Have you listened to Climbing Gold?! The new season is here! Check out the first episode of the new season, and subscribe to Climbing Gold on your favorite podcast app for more great climbing stories. Enjoy :)In the 1970’s, no flame burned brighter than Hot Henry Barber. Often heralded as the first traveling climber, Henry redefined standards for free climbing and free soloing not just the US, but every country he visited. Along the way, he shattered egos before learning to check his own.Check out Climbing Gold!climbinggold.comInstagramListen on Apple PodcastsListen on Spotify   

Climbing Gold — Hot Henry

Alex Honnold is on the podcast! Who? The guy that free handed Yellowstone? Close enough.  Seriously though, this was such a great interview. We talked about his two most epic solos that nobody heard about, near misses, lessons from other climbing legends like Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft, pooping while free soloing stories, how the film Free Solo exceeded his hopes and dreams, the commitment to excellence, and much more!The Nugget is on YouTube!youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-honnoldNuggets:0:08:25 – Interviews, speech coaches, and TED Talks0:11:29 – Finding new terrain for this interview0:12:09 – Alex’s epic solo linkup in Zion0:15:20 – Soloing ‘Moonlight Buttress’… again0:16:12 – Why do these big solo linkups?0:17:00 – Alex’s epic solo linkup in Red Rock0:18:58 – Foot pain on big walls and linkups, and vitamin I0:21:45 – Onsight free soloing ‘Shune’s Buttress’ and ‘Resolution Arete’0:24:38 – The hardest thing Alex has downclimbed0:25:33 – Why do some solos get so much attention while others fly under the radar?0:26:51 – Free soloing ‘Sendero Luminoso’ in Mexico, and pitching films0:29:21 – What are the limits of free soloing?0:32:35 – It’s getting harder to have quantum leaps0:34:20 – Feeling content with his Yosemite and soloing accomplishments, and comparing himself to the top sport climbers0:36:26 – Chris Sharma doing the FA of ‘Necessary Evil’ 5.14c (8c+) in his first few years of climbing, and the role of talent in high-end climbing0:39:44 – Alex’s sport climbing resume, what it would take for him to climb 5.15a (9a+), and the tension in his climbing0:42:37 – Dad strength, and having to focus with limited time0:43:50 – The climbing gyms in Vegas, and dreams of a home wall0:49:34 – Near misses while soloing0:55:34 – Soloing ‘Fiesta De Los Biceps’ in Riglos Spain0:57:46 – Competing with Ethan Pringle as a kid, soloing ‘Shune’s Butress’ in the snow, and the tree story1:03:16 – Soloing ‘Monkey Finger’, Big Horn tracks, and spirit animals1:04:22 – Climbing slowly, and the physiological limits on ‘The Nose’ speed record1:08:06 – What it took to break ‘The Nose’ speed record, and Alex’s thoughts on breaking it again1:10:47 – The biggest lessons Alex has learned from Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft1:14:26 – Drawing inspiration from other climbers, and soloing with Shawn Raboutou1:18:15 – Following the climbing news1:19:01 – Who Alex is most impressed by in climbing, and interviewing the Mellow crew (Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Jimmy Webb, and Giuliano Cameroni)1:20:35 – The new season of Climbing Gold, and unearthing the great stories of climbing1:22:13 – Who Alex has been most thrilled to interview1:23:28 – The time commitment of Climbing Gold, corporate speaking, and interviewing Stone Masters1:26:24 – Will Climbing Gold ever put out uncut interviews?1:28:37 – Pooping while free soloing stories1:34:56 – Shit-putting, and where he stopped to poop on his solo of El Cap1:36:29 – Filming Free Solo, how the movie far exceeded his hopes and dreams, the warrior spirit, and soloing as modern blood sport1:38:54 – The commitment to excellence, and his running list of goal routes1:41:05 – Plans for the PNW, hard routes on Liberty Bell, and having more commitments and time constraints these days1:43:57 – “More intention never hurt.”1:44:47 – “The guy that free-handed Yellowstone?”

EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing

Will Bosi is a 24-year-old climber from Scotland who has emerged as one of the best climbers in the world. This interview is hot off the press! Will made the second ascent of ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17 less than two weeks ago and joins us for a proper geek out about the send. We talked about his process of projecting the replica and the actual boulder, his feats of finger strength and where to draw the line between party tricks and useful strength, doing the second ascent of ‘Mutation’ at Raven Tor, his absolute dream project, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-bosiNuggets:0:05:18 – The emotions we experience after a big send, and looking for new projects in Scotland0:07:56 – How sending Burden of Dreams has changed his self-perception, and the style of hard project that Will is searching for0:10:53 – Being from Scotland and currently based in Sheffield0:12:17 – Following Will’s journey trying the replica with Aidan and Stefano, live streams from Finland, and taking seven years for Burden to get repeated0:15:38 – Mutation continues to go unrepeated again after Will did it0:17:23 – Is Will the first person to have climbed V17 and 5.15c? (9A boulder and 9b+ sport)0:20:07 – Will’s first time trying the Burden replica in Aidan’s shed0:23:32 – Will’s thoughts on Shawn’s progress on Burden0:25:10 – The warmup game on Burden, and the last move0:30:16 – Will’s standard training session, and what his process looked like training on the Bruden replica0:33:45 – Doing the first move 5 times in a session, and feeling stronger every session0:36:26 – How similar the replica is to the actual boulder, and what surprised Will the most when he tried Burden0:41:12 – How Will’s beta compared to Nalle’s, and the heal hook beta0:46:17 – What a full session looked like on the replica,  and how that compared to a session on the actual boulder0:51:28 – His skin when he sent the boulder, feeling strongest on his first try of the day, and the send0:54:48 – How long a pair of shoes lasts on the boulder0:57:33 – Will’s shoe selection for Burden, and struggling with the second move0:58:53 – The pulley setup on the replica, comparing it to Katie Lamb’s experience on Spectre, and the usefulness of power spots1:08:50 – Will replicas change the way we think about flashing boulders?1:12:03 – The future of replica training, and the Alphane replica in Aidan’s shed1:15:35 – Will’s thoughts on the grades of Burden, Alphane, and his FA Honey Badger1:26:27 – Will’s feats of finger strength on the hangboard1:30:57 – Where is the line between party tricks vs. functional finger strength?1:34:21 – A breakdown of Mutation 9a+/b1:38:24 – Bigger edge training vs. micros1:40:52 – How often throughout the year Will does his go-to style of training session, and building volume vs. intensity1:46:28 – Will’s absolute dream in climbing, and his experience on Excalibur 5.15c (9b+)1:49:10 – Breakdown of the moves on Excalibur1:52:21 – What’s next for Will, and potential plans for the summer1:53:59 – Will’s thoughts on endurance training, and his story of sending Estado Critico 9a1:55:13 – Being more thoughtful about your climbing1:57:17 – Feeling excited to relax and chill, and plans to release a film of Burden1:58:22 – Subscribe to Will’s YouTube channel for send footage!

EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects, and Functional Finger Strength vs. Party Tricks

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Katie Lamb. We talked about her recent send of Spectre V14 in Bishop CA, breaking down crux moves into multiple pieces, how she trains on a spray wall, her top 5 go-to lifts in the weight room, projecting tricks, dopamine snacks vs. substance, what she learned from Spectre, having the travel bug, goals for 2023, and more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:12:49.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingKatie’s Original Episode:EP 145: Katie Lamb 

Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Sending ‘Spectre’ V14, and Breaking Down Crux Moves (Teaser)

Charlie Schreiber is a world-class climbing coach who has helped day 1 athletes become National Champions, 5.14d sport climbers, and V15 boulderers. We talked about the value of asking “why”, giving kids hard work and then reward, finding fresh lemons to squeeze, puzzle books and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker, our shared goal to climb V13, how to have a good poop in the morning (every time), and much more!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiberNuggets:0:03:19 – My painting of Monkey Face at Smith Rock, and hominess0:04:34 – Charlie’s apartment, and making and collecting art0:08:08 – What Charlie thought I looked like from listening to the podcast0:10:48 – How Charlie got into coaching, routesetters as choreographers, and building a successful climbing team from scratch0:16:49 – Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar, Charlie’s own competition background, and being obsessed with coaching and giving back to the kids0:18:37 – Where Charlie got his coaching ideas, and the emphasis on humor, games, and play0:22:37 – “The only reason anyone’s going to give effort to something is if they believe in it.”0:24:38 – Hard work, and then reward (e.g. capture the flag)0:26:38 – Motivating adult clients, and working with one of his clients to get better at slab0:30:15 – The school system, and understanding why you are doing things0:32:26 – Slab climbing fundamentals0:35:38 – Spending time on fundamental skills, the learning zone, and perfect repeats0:40:26 – Adding structure to the warmup, and adherence as #10:43:39 – Customizing training for each individual, and finding all of the lemons to squeeze0:47:31 – How routesetting helped Charlie’s climbing, and asking “why”0:50:53 – How asking “why” applies to outdoor climbs0:53:53 – Making up your own climbs in the gym, puzzle books, and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker1:03:15 – The forced move drill1:05:35 – Charlie’s goal to climb V13, and the path to get there1:12:10 – My Follow-Up with Emil Abrahamsson, my experience with fueling my training better, and momentum1:14:37 – More about Charlie’s approach to climbing V13, and finger training with large hands1:17:13 – My goal for Rocklands, how Charlie approaches a trip, and the value of getting on really hard climbs1:23:34 What Charlie is working on improving to climb V13, and my plans to project a V12 and V13 in Rocky Mountain this Fall1:29:23 – “Never, ever, ever give up.” - Winston Churchill1:33:58 – Charlie’s honeymoon1:35:36 – Using your spouse/partner as an accountability tool1:39:44 – Valuing climbing for the experiences rather than self-worth1:44:11 – How to have a good poop in the morning, every time1:49:11 – My paleo autoimmune diet experiment, and having full meals at the crag1:51:40 – My bicep tendon injury1:52:45 – Charlie’s experiment with an alkaline diet1:55:39 – How Charlie blew up on Instagram2:03:05 – Being awarded the “Dyno King” by Chris Sharma, and drawing inspiration from Tyson Schoene2:05:37 – Setting the record straight with Austin Hoyt2:09:58 – Plugs and wrap up

EP 165: Charlie Schreiber — Asking "Why", Squeezing Lemons, and How to Have a Good Poop in the Morning, Every Time

Melina Costanza is a competition powerhouse and the 2021 US Boulder National Champion. She opened up recently about her struggles with an eating disorder and decided to step away from competitions. We talked about her foot injury and surgery, why patent law is similar to climbing, how sports glamorize suffering, getting stronger during recovery, how gratitude can impact your training, and fun facts about Melina from ketchup to baby teeth necklaces.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melina-costanzaNuggets:0:06:25 – Update on Melina’s foot surgery and recovery0:10:27 – The patent bar exam, and similarities between patent law and climbing0:15:15 – Legos, and being a nerd growing up0:16:45 – How taking her first physics class improved her climbing0:19:30 – Modern volume climbing0:24:06 – How Melina is thinking about her climbing moving forward, and training for upcoming competitions0:26:20 – Plans to get back into sport climbing, and Melina’s Tumbler account0:28:31 – Why Melina decided to quit climbing in college0:33:36 – Fun in competitions, and only doing competitions that she wants to be at0:36:48 – Expectations and pressure, and competing to win vs. competing to not lose0:42:25 – Competitions as data, and “shoulding”0:45:21 – Melina’s Instagram post about her eating disorder, and the story of breaking her foot0:50:40 – The distortion your mind experiences with an eating disorder, and how sports glamorize suffering0:57:42 – How your identity becomes entangled in an eating disorder, and rewriting the stories you tell yourself1:01:53 – The importance of including fat and carbs in your diet, and getting stronger quickly once she started fueling properly1:09:54 – Taking a leap of faith, and being vulnerable publically to help others1:15:40 – A comment from Nicole1:16:23 – Patron question from Katja: What inspired her to go public with her story?1:19:13 – Not letting her eating disorder define her1:20:09 – Did talking about it publically help?1:22:53 – Patron question from Ana: Did anyone bring up Melina’s weight as a concern?1:24:50 – Patron question from Eric: How would someone bring up concerns about an eating disorder in a tactful way?1:27:10 – Patron question from Zachary: How does Melina deal with intrusive thoughts around weight? How does she balance performance with recovery?1:30:52 – Disconnecting morality from food, and sweets1:34:31 – How not eating enough disrupts sleep1:37:30 – Fun facts with Melina Costanza!1:37:37 – Tattooing people in high school1:39:02 – Ketchup1:40:44 – Container store1:42:05 – Whiteboards and houseplants1:43:54 – Taylor Swift1:47:41 – Doja Cat1:49:46 – Sharks1:50:18 – The meat packing industry in the early 1900s1:51:59 – Parents and academics1:54:17 – Training at home during covid with her brother, and the role of gratitude in training1:59:07 – Current training, and getting strong2:04:29 – Training her fingers for the first time, and using the Tindeq (use code NUGGET for $10 off!)2:07:47 – How hard can Melina climb with one foot?2:09:18 – More fun facts with Melina!2:09:50 – Frozen peas2:10:46 – Baby teeth necklace2:11:50 – Forensic pathology DVDs2:15:02 – Raw octopus2:15:49 – Medival torture museum, and developing confidence2:19:15 – Fencing2:20:20 – Olympic aspirations2:21:23 – A couple of questions from Tyson Schoene2:26:19 – Wrap up

EP 164: Melina Costanza — Why Eating Food Makes You Awesome, Competing to Win vs. Not Lose, and Fun Facts With Melina

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Matt Heyliger is back on the podcast and joins me to talk about my bicep tendon injury back in December in Hueco, my rehab process, and how I was able to get back to climbing V10 in less than three months. We discuss the different stages of recovery, using BFR as part of my rehab, how to make the transition back to training, and how I am currently training for an upcoming bouldering trip to Magic Wood and Rocklands.Matt's Website:mattheyliger.comBecome a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:31:47.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMatt’s Original Episode:EP 143: Matt Heyliger 

Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — How I Rehabbed My Bicep Tendon Injury, and How to Make the Transition From Rehab Back to Training (Teaser)

Johnny Dawes is a legendary British rock climber known for his exceptional footwork and unique dynamic style. We talked about his first ascent of Indian Face (the first-ever E9) when it was likely the most dangerous route in the world, climbing 5.13b (8a) slabs without using his hands, tips for mastering footwork, his writing practice and current book project, and life lessons involving three-legged stools, omelets, pasta, icebergs, and more.Watch This Video!Johnny's 7-Minute Video on The GuardianCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/johnny-dawesNuggets:0:04:22 – A couple of fun stories from our past lives0:08:01 – Having a blue day, dicking about, and thoughts on what he wants to accomplish in his life0:10:25 – The head, the heart, and the gut0:11:22 – Knowing where you’re going, the water bottle, and the grannies0:15:51 – Why I was so excited to talk with Johnny0:17:24 – Crawling out the driver's window of his car with a brick on the accelerator0:21:42 – Breaking down one of his legendary no-hand climbs (watch the Guardian video!)0:26:35 – Johnny’s ideal staircase, and flattening the world to flatter our egos0:30:07 – Bolts and baked potatoes0:32:04 – Johnny’s thoughts about modern bouldering, and being impressed with Shawn Raboutou0:33:38 – Chess problems, eyes bigger than tummy, and what brought the best out of Johnny in his climbing0:37:55 – Sticking an 8A (V11) hang on two terrible holds0:42:06 – What Johnny looks for in climbing, and the musicality of climbing0:52:04 – Hank Pascal0:53:27 – Watchin Jerry Moffatt climb Masters Wall, and why Johnny felt compelled to climb Indian Face, the world’s first E91:01:09 – North Wales, the apple tree, and wanting to be a part of the history of the sport1:10:01 – Sending Indian Face, partying at the disco, trying The Meltdown 9a, and some of Johnny’s recent new routes at Cloggy1:15:19 – Breakdown of the difficulty and gear on Indian Face, and how it got its name1:20:36 – Kurt Albert on the escalator1:23:59 – Patron comment from Artjom, and no-hands tips and exercises from Johnny1:27:48 – The hardest things Johnny has climbed without his hands, and climbing 1600+ “walks” in Britan1:31:15 – Spectacular Walks on British Rock1:32:38 – Making grip1:35:47 – How no-hands climbing applies to hard technical rock climbing1:37:55 – How Johnny Dawes approaches improving footwork1:41:19 – Writing the Footwork Handbook1:43:38 – His autobiography, his writing practice, and the mysteries of consciousness1:47:58 – Zen and the Art of Archery1:51:03 – A window into being alive, and games that keep you present1:53:12 – “Your enthusiasm tells you who you are”, and climbing in gardening gloves1:55:19 – Patron question from Will: What climbers inspired Johnny early on?1:57:50 – Music, writing, and artistic inspirations1:58:40 – Who does Johnny pay attention to these days in climbing?2:01:05 – Patron question from Nick: What do you think climbing will or should look like in another 30 years?2:03:12 – Climbing shoe evolution, and the world’s strongest man2:05:19 – Life lessons with Johnny Dawes, the three-legged stool, and making omelets and pasta2:12:20 – Formative causation2:14:19 – Go to bed when you’re tired, and treat people like icebergs2:15:35 – “It is never too late to be who you might have been.”2:19:37 – Roof man, and being useless2:22:12 – Reading Jeff Smoot’s book, and why humans do dangerous things2:25:22 – Wanting to do impossible things, and “modern life can go f*** itself”2:26:57 – “Can I go?”

EP 163: Johnny Dawes — Legendary No-Hands Climbs, How to Master Footwork, and Life Lessons From Omelets to Icebergs

Fundamentals (Part 6 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I dive into how to structure your climbing year. We talk about the circumstances that led to some of our best years in climbing, the importance of having a plan and taking notes, why focus tends to produce excellence, how to build from one phase to the next, and making sure your training supports your climbing. Happy planning!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse FirestoneTom Randall's Follow-Up:Follow-Up: Tom Randall The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zack Emery Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-6Nuggets:0:02:55 – Sending my first three V11s in 2021, why 2022 was less successful than 2021, and "focus tends to produce excellence"0:09:56 – Why 2022 was a great year for Jesse, and flashing Free Willie V10 in Hueco Tanks0:11:56 – Jesse’s new philosophy, and realizing that he will never try everything on his list0:13:37 – Steven’s Tip #1: Write out a rough plan for your year0:16:31 – Jesse’s Tip #1: Map out the major phases for your year0:17:16 – Steven’s Tip #2: Reflect and take notes on your previous year0:20:01 – Jesse’s Tip #2: Keep a daily journal0:21:17 – Bonus Tip: Celebrate your successes, and write down your top 10 climbing experiences at the end of each year0:22:14 – What Jesse includes in his daily journal, and reviewing once a season0:24:21 – My prefered journaling method, and the +/- system0:26:43 – Jesse’s Google Keep beta0:28:05 – Steven’s Tip #3: Give yourself time to transition between disciplines0:34:36 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Write down three things that you want to work on to be prepared for each phase0:40:05 – Jesse’s Tip #4: Your training should support your climbing (put the climbing first)0:43:27 – Steven’s Tip #4: If you want to hit a peak performance, set aside three months to build toward that goal0:44:34 – Steven’s Tip #5: Listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall on how to program your training0:45:23 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Just winging it0:45:43 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not having a plan0:47:21 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not rolling with the punches0:48:28 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not taking notes (or not summarizing your notes in a way that is actually useful)0:49:22 – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not taking a rest phase0:52:14 – Bonus Tip: If you want to keep a session short, make a plan for right after the session0:53:55 – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Bouncing around too often with disciplines, styles, rock types, etc.0:55:24 – Jesse’s Pitfall #4: Putting all of your time, energy, and using all of the good conditions for one limit thing (throw yourself a bone every once in a while!)0:57:12 – The progression zone0:58:04 – Steven’s Top Tip: Make a plan and take notes, and listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall0:58:47 – Jesse’s Top Tip: Focus on the stuff that matters: no more than three0:59:22 – Jesse’s two goals for 20221:00:13 – Let us know if you want a season 2!

EP 162: Fundamentals — How to Structure Your Climbing Year

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Emil Abrahamsson is back on the podcast to talk about sending his first V15. We talked about how gaining 15 lbs (6.5 kg) led to sending his hardest boulder, how and why he overhauled his training, how he’s achieved long-term finger strength gains, sending his most meaningful project with Power of Now V14, my goal to climb my first V13, his advice for me, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:06:03.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingEmil’s Original Episode:EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson (Sept 6, 2021) 

Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)

Sam Stroh is caffeinated, psyched, and ready to send everything from double-digit highballs to free routes on El Cap. We talked about his early climbing and onsighting Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), our coffee and chocolate addictions, finding the perfect climbing partner, the biggest lessons from each discipline of climbing, suffering on the side of El Cap, botching it with tactics, and harrowing sends.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-strohNuggets:0:05:17 – Coffee and morning rituals0:10:25 – Sam’s stretching and evening routines, and the self-care bell curve0:13:42 – Sam shares his intentions for the conversation and topics he wants to cover0:19:27 – Onsighting the Moonlight Buttress 5.12+ in Zion at age 20 with bad tactics0:28:36 – Meeting his climbing partner Adrian, and trying Desert Gold and Jet Stream in Red Rocks0:32:31 – Switching between disciplines, and Sam’s thoughts on how he and Adrian are so perfectly aligned0:35:59 – Sam’s background in sports0:37:54 – The benefits of bouldering for big wall climbing0:40:44 – The method to the madness with switching disciplines, and cultivating long-term relationships0:43:09 – What inspires Sam the most long-term, and having great stories0:48:39 – Wet moss on El Niño, and trying Wet Lycra Nightmare with Jordan Cannon0:55:00 – Injuring his hand on the Salathe0:59:15 – Working on Wet Lycra Nightmare, and Sam and I connect over our love-hate relationship with Smith Rock1:06:41 – The mindfulness and patience of bouldering1:12:06 – The quintessential sport climbing experience1:16:28 – Sam’s biggest lesson from big wall climbing: get a waterproof portaledge fly1:24:44 – Thoughts on big wall ethics and style1:34:12 – Sam’s ape index, and the height-dependent nature of El Cap1:37:34 – The Freerider story1:45:28 – Favorite big wall and bouldering snacks1:46:58 – Sam’s knee injury1:51:01 – Upcoming trip to Spain, Greece, and France1:52:21 – Thoughts on the lack of information on endurance training for climbing, and rehabbing his shoulder1:58:30 – Lessons from switching between bouldering or training and sport climbing2:02:11 – No more treadwalls in gyms2:03:44 – Watching the river vs. diving in

EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap

Fundamentals (Part 5 of 6) — In part 5 of this series, Jesse and I share our tips and pitfalls for picking a project. As Jesse says in this episode, picking the right projects is a key part of having a satisfying climbing experience. We cover some of our best projecting experiences, as well as times we botched it, and we try to pass on what we learned along the way. Have fun projecting!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zack Emery Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-5Nuggets:0:03:26 – Plans for season 2 of Fundamentals!0:04:12 – Why picking the right project matters0:05:41 – Jesse’s experience on Turbulence V11/12 in Leavenworth, WA0:07:05 – My experience on Eternia V11 in RMNP, CO0:09:39 – Jesse’s epic to climb his first V10 in OR0:11:34 – Times I’ve botched it with picking projects, and a good experience on Crime Wave 5.13d at Smith Rock, OR0:15:58 – Jesse’s experience with Boxcar 5.13c at the Rat Cave, OR0:17:04 – Steven’s Tip #1: If you are trying to do the hardest thing you have ever done, make everything else easy0:18:09 – Jesse’s Tip #1: Ask yourself the ABC questions: Is it accessible, badass, and challenging?0:21:03 – Bonus Tip: Know thyself0:22:08 – Steven’s Tip #2: Remember that grades are a relative difficulty marker and they’re not absolute0:24:01 – Jesse’s Tip #2: A V-grade is a poor substitute for motivation0:27:16 – Steven’s Tip #3: Think about what your last 3 months, 6 months, and year have looked like in terms of your climbing0:27:56 – Steven’s Tip #4: Think about what the 1 and 2 month lead up time to the project is going to look like (and choose a pre-project if you can)0:29:55 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Once you’ve committed to trying to do something, it’s ok if you only want to do it because of the grade/difficulty0:33:55 – Steven’s Tip #5: Pick a challenge that excites you0:37:27 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overcommitting to a tick list,  and not leaving room for serendipity0:40:40 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Picking a limit project that is a pain in the ass in one or more ways0:42:13 – Jesse’s realization from trying The Teacup V13 in Leavenworth, WA0:43:00 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Letting all of your other climbing suffer because you are just trying one project (I.e. Be careful about oneitis!)0:45:35 – Bonus Tip: Take the things you see on Instagram with a grain of salt0:48:00 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Picking a limit project with a single low-percentage move0:50:45 – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Listening too much to other people (Don’t let yourself be put in a box!)0:53:02 – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not adjusting the grade appropriately to find the correct level of challenge0:54:20 – Jesse’s Pitfall #4: Picking a project just because it’s there0:54:50 – Jesse’s Pitfall #5: Not giving yourself a break between hard projects0:56:37 – Summaries are in the show notes!0:57:17 – Jesse’s Top Tip: Learn to pay attention to that little voice in your head that tells you what’s inspiring0:58:04 – Steven’s Top Tip: If you trying to do the hardest thing you’ve ever done, stack all the cards in your favor

EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project

Tom Randall and Sam Van Boxtel are back on the podcast to discuss all things YouTube! We talked about YouTube as the future of climbing media, why Shawn Raboutou’s vlog is such a big deal in climbing right now, why I started a channel for The Nugget, how much money YouTubers make, the keys to being successful on YouTube, top advice for all content creators, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingTom’s Other Episodes:EP 75: Tom Randall (June 21, 2021)Follow-Up: Tom Randall (Feb 17, 2022)Sam’s Other Episodes:EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel (Sept 5, 2022)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and RenzollamaBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-and-samNuggets:0:08:10 – Pee bottles, Tom’s advice for vanlife peeing activities0:10:11 – The Ultimate Peeing Van Bodily Fluid Dilema0:12:57 – Welcoming Tom and Sam back on the podcast, and their other episodes (see show notes for links)0:13:59 – Tom’s busy life, and being extremely intentional about what he chooses to do0:15:58 – Tom’s quest to find the ultimate climbing  experience in a single pitch, and climbing ‘Once Upon a Time’ E90:20:04 – Why are we recording an entire episode about YouTube?0:23:49 – How often Tom gets recognized from YouTube, and why he’s so interested in where things are going0:26:10 – It’s still early on YouTube0:28:32 – Why is Shawn Raboutou starting his Vlog one of the biggest things to happen in climbing media in recent years?0:33:11 – Why more pro climbers will likely move over to YouTube, and YouTube vs. Instagram payouts0:36:35 – Why is YouTube the future of climbing media?0:40:50 – Why long-form podcasts are similar to YouTube vlogs0:43:44 – Why I launched a YouTube channel for The Nugget (link in show notes!)0:46:20 – Why YouTube wins over static content0:49:46 – What Tom has learned from growing the Lattice Training channel0:52:57 – The importance of packaging your content well, the behind-the-scenes of YouTubing, comparing Anna Hazelnutt and Adam Ondra’s channels, and how much it costs to run a YouTube channel1:00:25 – How technology levels the playing field for content creators1:01:49 – How much do people make on YouTube, and where does the money come from?1:07:27 – The keys to being successful on YouTube1:12:55 – How hard Magnus Midtbø works to make his channel successful (see show notes for his podcast episode)1:14:09 – Sam’s 3 keys to being successful on YouTube: Title, Topic, and Thumbnail1:16:40 – The importance of organization and systems1:19:12 – Sam’s recommendations for The Nugget’s channel, and filling out the ecosystem of the channel1:23:58 – Tom’s advice for me, and making content specific to the platform you plan to share it on1:32:49 – Why aren’t brands doing more on YouTube?1:36:09 – What should climbing brands be doing as far as YouTube is concerned?1:40:21 – Behind the scenes with brand sponsorships1:43:55 – Tom’s advice for anyone who is thinking of starting a YouTube channel, and the hard work it takes to be successful1:48:59 – What Tom is most excited to see on YouTube1:50:36 – What Sam is most excited to see on YouTube1:51:39 – What I am most excited to see on YouTube1:53:23 – Wrap up, Tom’s upcoming trip to Austria, and Sam’s upcoming trips in the States1:57:57 – Watch full uncut podcast videos on Patreon

EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make

Fundamentals (Part 4 of 6) — In part 4 of this series, Jesse and I discuss our top tips for how to improve your climbing technique, and share common pitfalls that can prevent progress. These are fundamental tips that you can practice at the climbing gym, the boulders, or the crag. We hope this episode helps you more closely examine your movement so you can level up your climbing!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Renzollama Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-4Nuggets:0:04:23 – Jesse’s realization about his climbing style, and wanting to climb taller0:06:23 – My interest in getting better at straight-on roof climbing0:07:47 – Jesse’s Tip #1: Structure your technical practice0:10:38 – Skills are specific to the intensity of the movement0:12:25 – My philosophy for improving technique and how it differs from Jesse’s0:14:23 – Steven’s Tip #1: Become really interested in becoming a better climber0:15:35 – Jesse’s Tip #2: Technique starts with creativity0:16:53 – The lesson Jesse learned from Pangalactic Gargleblaster0:19:30 – Steven’s Tip #2: Watch climbing videos0:22:21 – Jesse’s Tip #3: Film yourself incessantly0:26:27 – Steven’s Tip #3: Do perfect repeats0:29:33 – Steven’s Tip #4: Film yourself and review the video between tries0:30:59 – The confidence that comes from having footage of yourself climbing well0:33:48 – “We tend to believe the things we tell ourselves.”0:36:26 – Jesse’s Tip #4 (from Kim!): Speak the language0:38:31 – Steven’s Tip #5: Do the one and two-star climbs at your home crag0:40:33 – Bonus Tip: Frustration is usually a sign that there is room for improvement0:42:12 – Bonus Tip: Have your friends set problems for you on the spray wall0:42:12 – The satisfaction of climbing a scrappy or unpleasant climb really gracefully0:43:34 – “Take me to a moderate that I’ve never heard of.”0:43:56 – Jesse’s Tip #5: Treat your flexibility as a skill, and practice it on the wall0:48:38 – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Assuming you’ve learned everything there is to learn0:51:33 – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Assuming that if something looks good it must be good technique0:55:08 – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Going through the motions0:56:38 – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Becoming too robotic with your technique practice0:58:36 – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Expecting gym technique to transfer to outdoor climbing1:02:25 – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not training your technique in your strong areas1:03:51 – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Avoiding the things that you’re bad at and turning everything into your style1:06:14 – Jesse’s Top Tip: Be endlessly curious about how you’re moving on the wall1:06:31 – Steven’s Top Tip: Become very interested in climbing better and bring that intention to your climbing

EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique

Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. 1M+ downloads. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space." - Climbing Magazine

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The Nugget Climbing Podcast

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