Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1) Recall an instance when you messed up at a critical step in a build. Then describe what you did to shake off the setback, and what if anything, you did to save the project? Michael 2) Hey guys, I have a question about “chasing the burr” when sharpening plane irons. I use a veritas mark II guide and get a great polish on my PM-V11 plane irons with a 12,000 grit Shapton stone. After the microbevel has a consistent sheen all the way across, I take the iron out of the guide and use the ruler trick to remove the burr. I’ve tried swiping back and forth just once all the way up to 7 or 8 times. Sometimes I can shave my forearm hairs at that point, but often have to go to a strop for a few passes before doing the ruler trick again on the 12,000 grit stone. Since I primarily use bevel up planes with differing blade angles, I’d really prefer not to have to use the strop because it’s hard for me to tell what angle I’m at when stropping freehand. Do you guys have any advice that can help me remove the burr without having to chase it? Damon   Huy 1) I’m moving to a new basement shop with no windows. My concern is about overhead lighting. Did you use program to help layout of design?  I’m working on tool and dust collector now. Also I’m leaning to 4’ LED at 5k color.  Suggestions?  Thanks, Chris Hough 2) My current project required extensive use of a tongue and groove bit set (specifically the Freud adjustable kit) to make siding and flooring. My next project is a set of cabinets for my laundry room (lowers, uppers, and a full-height pantry). Shaker-style, no profiles on the cope-and-stick frames. Is there any reason I shouldn't / can't use the T&G set to route the rails and stiles for the cabinet doors and frames, and should purchase a set with a more "refined" profile? I like the Freud kit, you can really dial in the fit, especially for veneered center panels, but all the cool kids on the interwebs seem to use specific, profiled bits. I should mention I saw Guy did a video with an adjustable set, but you know what they say - don't trust anyone over 40 (I'm 44). Regardless there are 3 of you, so death match over it or something. The cabinets will be made of hard maple which I know is a P.I.T.A. to work with and route cleanly, but I got a tree in the kiln and the T&G I just finished was over 1000 linear feet of Black Locust, so whatever I do will be relatively easy. Frame of reference - Huy, the Honey Locust you had a hard time on your daughter's...bassinet(?) with is 1580lbf Janka. Black Locust is 1700. Hard Maple - pffft only 1450. Cherry/Walnut right around 1000. Thanks for the advice. I'm starting on these in early December, so I'll probably use whatever answer you provide in early January (in case your recent requests for questions have resulted in a backlog). Thanks for keeping it real. Tom   Guy 1) I have a question about cleaning my 3 HP dust collector with dual canisters. I have the Grizz G0562 but I assume that the Jet, Powermatic and other brands similar models are maintained the same. How often, if ever, should I clean the canisters and how best to do that? I recently gave my shop the semiannual leaf blower clean and when I passed the blower in front of the canisters I saw a huge amount of fine dust drop down into the bag. I somewhat often spin the handle on top of the canister but that doesn't seem to release anything noticable. Thanks fellas, keep up the great work! Jeremy 2) Enjoy the podcast and this is the second time I’ve submitted a question.  You addressed my first question very well so let’s see if we can go 2 for 2. I hear you guys, especially Guy, touting the benefits of shellac.  I’m not feeling the love personally.  Now I don’t use flakes and mix my own which may be the problem.  I use the Zinzer product and brush it on.  I have trouble with uneven coats, some areas drying too fast keeping me from working with a wet edge.  Lots of runs and just generally uneven and ugly.  I hear you talking about spraying which I can do but haven’t tried that yet.  When spraying what do you use to clean the sprayer?  I’m using ammonia per instructions to clean my brushes but not thrilled with using it on the sprayer. Do I just need to start mixing my own to get a decent finish?  Also the Zinzer leaves too much of a glossy finish, how do I get more satin? Tom  

Woodshop Life Podcast

Episode 87 - Critical Mistakes Were Made, Crappy Shellac Finish, Shop Lights Layout & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Huy 1) Gentlemen- Had two questions, figured I would break them into two missives to keep it organized. Again, thank you for podcast. What are some non-tool, non-woodworking-related "things" that make your time in the shop more enjoyable or productive? For example, for me, it might be my Sirius XM or Amazon Music subscriptions, pot, or the cage I keep my children in. Huy, in your old shop, maybe your mini-split. Do you have anything like that? If you say "blue tape" Mike Pekovich will eat your soul. Tom 2) I’m cutting a 7x5” opening into the countertop of a washer/dryer surround made of 3/4” walnut plywood, in order to access the water shut off if ever needed. Anyways, I’d ultimately like to figure out a way to cut the opening and reuse the off-cut piece as the new “lid” for the opening. I have a 1/8” spiral trim bit for my router and thought to plunge it down to begin the cut… then follow the template I made. I feel like there not a lot of room for error here… any suggestions for cutting openings in order to grain match and reuse the off-cut piece? Thanks! Chris     Guy 1) Hey guys, Figured I’d ask your opinion on shop ceiling heights.  I’ve been planning on building a new detached shop/garage next year.  My original design is a shed roof with an interior height of  12’ on the high side and 9’ on the low side.  But recently I’ve been thinking  maybe a gable roof with a dormer would be nice. Which could make room for a loft however the ceiling height would end  up around 9’ or 10’. Other than stacking lumber vertically, I don’t see the advantage of 12’ ceilings. Side note, I was planning on running some dust collection through the slab floor. Thanks as always, Jesse Beechland Furniture 2) I usually build cabinets with doors and drawers overlapping the face frame. However I would like to inset the drawers on a pair of Shaker style side tables that I am building. How much gap (1/16", 1/8" should I plan for between the drawers and face frame. Drawer face is just under 6" wide. I live in the Intermountain West and it remains pretty dry all year. After I get the position set, any tips to temporarily hold drawer faces in position on the drawers until I can install screws from the inside? Wild Horse Woodworking 3) I've gotten a couple requests from family members wanting some items with the "modern farmhouse" look - specifically rough-sawn boards for some of the 'show' faces.  Given that most of the tools in my shop were purchased with the intention of making wood nice and smooth and square... I was wondering if you have any tips/tricks for intentionally creating a rough-sawn look on boards. Thanks, Monte  

Episode 86 - Shop Ceilings, That Farmhouse Look, More Enjoyable Shop Time & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1)Wanted to start out by saying thank you for making my 30 min drive to and from work some of the most enjoyable and informative time of my day. My question is regarding lumber storage; I have a small one car garage shop that has a slight twist from the norm. Though it is a “garage” it is built over a basement and has a thick wooden floor. The basement space is unused and is connected to the basement of the house via a door. Do you guys think the atmospheric conditions in the basement would differ enough from the above garage space as to cause issues if I used it for my lumber storage area. My shop is well organized but pretty tight. I’ll have storage in the shop for smaller wood and I have a dedicated shelve system under my miter saw station to store all the parts for a single project minus larger sheet goods. I want to use the basement to keep 200-300 board feet to allow it to acclimatize to my shop. Side note, the basement space under the garage has a small garage door for lawnmower storage so air transfer will be similar to the garage above. I know Guy I’ll comment so here is the answer, no I don’t park my car over the basement on the wooden floor. Thanks guys and keep up the great work. Brian 2) Hey guys, love the podcast. You guy's, all, have jointer/planers with carbide cutter heads. What kind of finish are you getting with these? Is scraping or sanding still needed for a final finish, or are your parts ready for finish? Are these cutter heads, all they are cracked up to be? Ken   Guy 1) Thanks the great podcast!  I've been catching up on them recently; not quite all the way though.  Haven't heard Guy use 'specificity' for a while, so if you could see to that I'd appreciate it! ;) This question is about pocket hole joints and the need for glue - or not.  Given that pocket hole joints most commonly involve butt joints, i.e. short grain to long grain, is it really worth adding glue to the mix?  Part of me wonders whether with plywood having alternating grain direction to the layers might offset that a little?  I realize that it probably doesn't hurt anything in the long run, but it seems like it just makes everything more slippery and difficult to align. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks and keep up the good work, Monte 2) I'm interested in what you'd recommend for a beginner-friendly spray finish setup for occasional use on projects ranging from small boxes on up to possibly cabinets - if it's even feasible for one setup to cover that kind of range.  If not, what would you recommend for one vs. the other. Thanks and keep up the great work, Monte   Huy 1) So it seems every time I install hinges there is some issue with them, whether it's a lid not closing flush, a door that swings open, or spacing around a door not being consistent. I will qualify that I rarely if ever use "quality" hinges. I'm more likely to use home center or the cheaper Rockler/Woodcraft options. Can you give any advice on having the best success with hinges? Both by hand and using power tools, please. I consider myself a decent woodworker but this continues to be an issue for me. Peter 2) I have been binge listening to your podcasts for the last several weeks and I am loving it. I love the format (especially compared to the other podcasts out there). I have learned a lot from listening to you as a new wood worker. I finally found and went to a hardwood dealer near me and bought some beautiful 5/4 and 8/4cherry. I put it on my lumber rack to acclimate to my shop. They are on a Bora horizontal rack. Do you recommend sticking them to allow air flow all around or should I just  stack one on top of the other? I look forward to your next show and hopefully I make it. Thanks, Jim  

Episode 85 - Hinge Tips, Lumber Storage, Pocket Holes Need Glue? & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1) Can we talk about chisels? I know I need to get some in order to start inlaying, but I'm struggling to spot the differences (other than price) between chisels. I'm happy to sharpen my own before use. Bearing that in mind, what features should I look for? What do you each use? Why are some chisels SO expensive? Chris 2) I am Gøran from Nomad Makes on Youtube and Instagram. I am currently on my 3rd binge listen on the podcast and enjoy it immensely. I recently watched Sean’s video an making the William and Mary Highboy and noticed him using carbide tipped tools when turning. I know Guy has said he is not a very proficient turner. And Sean also asked the viewers to go easy in that video. However you guys turn very well for being «not proficient» and only turning occasionally. Which is why I thought you would be perfect for answering this question, as I really don’t turn that often either. Excluding a Tormek style grinder, since I don’t have the space. My shop is 132ft2 and I have crammed in a proper cabinet saw in that space. I am considering learning to sharpen the turning tools (gauges and all) by hand or getting some with replaceable carbide tips. What do you think would be the pros and cons? Note that I already own a normal (not carbide) roughing gouge and 5 more turning doohickeys. Thanks and keep up the good work. Cheers from Bergen, Norway.   Huy 1) My Dewalt 735 planer is occasionally having issues feeding my lumber through. There will be times where it stops feeding and I try to assist it through by pushing a little or pulling from the outfeed side, although that doesn’t feel the safest. It may stop 4 or 5 times in the course of one board. It will likely leave the board with black lines across the width of the board and sometimes cause divots where the planer ate up more wood than it should have. I assume this is an issue with the rollers on the inside. I try to get rid of extra wood chips in there (I am using a DC too) and I’ve also tried mineral spirits on the rollers. Do you guys have any solutions? Matthew 2) Hey Guy, Huy, and Sean, I recently picked up some used hand tools while on vacation on the northern coast of Maine. I picked up a 24” hand saw, a Stanley 78 rabbet plane, and a sharpening stone in a custom fit wooden box (not as nice as Sean’s sharpening station). The two sides of the sharpening some are labeled “fine” and “course”. How can I tell if they are oil stones or water stones, and if they are oil stones, what type of oil should I use? The stone looks to be mostly gray (that may just be residual steel) but might have a brown or reddish hue to them. Additional question, if they are oil stones and I use water will that cause damage? Same question if they are water stones and I use oil. Thank you for the best Woodworking podcast. Joshua   Guy 1) Hey Guys. Jig question for you: when do you decide on whether to keep a shop made jig or pitch it in the trash? I like saving jigs that I plan on using again but I’m starting to run out of wall space to hang them. Is there a category / type of jig that you’ll make over and over vs one where you’ll try to make it once to keep for years? Ben 2) Hi, thank you for the time you invest in this excellent podcast! I have a question about drawers and would like to invite you to tackle this subject quite broadly: what is  the type you usually install in fine furniture, in workshop furniture,... Can you give tips on how to fit them correctly? What is your favorite drawer construction method? I'm asking this question in this way because in the past year I made and installed two different cabinets (including drawers). On these builds I used a gripless push-to-open type mechanism. I’m pleased with it altough it was a bit of work to get the fronts lining up correctly. Since this build I realised this sort of work can be rather tricky and now I would like to hear your take on it! Thanks! Bart  

Episode 84 - Feed The Planer, Favorite Drawers, Carbide Turning & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1) How do you guys remove remove squeeze out on inside corners? Let’s assume that you forgot to do any prep work for squeeze out. Is the only option short repetitive tedious strokes with sandpaper and scrapers? It seems like any other  sanding options leave cross grain scratches. Blue bees woodworking 2)Hi guys - Watching YouTube videos I see more and more people using dust masks / breathing apparatus these days. As an old guy ( I'm even older than Guy ) this equipment  was never available or even thought of many years ago, perhaps we would slip on some safety glasses and call it quits. I must confess a lot of my pottering around in the shed is done with just a pair of thongs ( I think maybe in the US you call them flip flops) edit: I don't want you guys thinking I'm wandering around my shed in a g-string ( thong / thongs), translations between countries varies . (I live in Australia) Anyways these days I see people wearing breathing masks / filters/ respirators that start from a simple mouth covering such as a mask to outrageously looking respirators that look like something from a Star Wars movie set. Do you guys use breathing protection ? If so, which type and your thoughts behind your choices PS: I'm older than Guy and don't own a SawStop, please answer as soon as you can as my time on earth is limited Regards Geoff   Guy 1)I have a question regarding cutting and joining 2x 45 degree angles. My question mostly applies to using hardwood, not plywood and thicker stock, like 6/4 and 8/4 for things like a waterfall style table or bench. I have the FeStool tracksaw, which is what I’ve used to cut my 45s. I find that it’s pretty dialed in when I check the angle after the cut, but for some reason when I join the 2 45s it’s always a few degrees off from 90. For what it’s worth, I join the 45s w dominos. I’m just having difficulty getting a perfectly even/square joint. Don’t really know if it’s a clamping or cutting issue to be honest. Any suggestions on clamping or cutting that could Help w this issue? (I’m not opposed to making a table saw sled just for when cutting 45s, but that’s not really an option for larger pieces) - Byran 2) Hey guys, thanks for answering my last question, I thought I’d return with another! My question is about water based finishes and HVLP spraying. I’ve been looking at buying a Fuji sprayer but unsure if it’s suitable and also what stage to go for? I have a small shop and feel HVLP is the way to go although I’ve been advised to go for an airless system instead Mainly be spraying water based paint finishes, but again unsure if this is suitable with HVLP? Also use a lot of Polyx osmo oil, is this suitable to be sprayed? -Mike   Huy 1)For this question. I have a 4ft by 4ft bench.  You guessed.... 2x4 frame screwed and glued to 4x4 legs with 1 sheet of 23/32 ply wood (cut in half hence the 4x4 ft top) screwed down.  I did not glue the top.  My thought was i can change/flip them if one sides gets beat up. There is a slight crown in my bench top.  The center is a bit higher then the edges and the corners are lowest.  What are your suggestions on on flatting this out.  It become a problem mostly hand planing as the corner is lower, and the work piece tips up. Thank you, Scott 2) Hello fellas, this is Garrett Roberson from HMR Custom Woodcraft.  I have a question about building a 36" wide by 72" long wall hanging that will go up behind a dart board.  The customer wants something to hang on the wall behind a dart board to protect the drywall behind it.  I would like to make it hang from the wall so that they can change or move it in the future instead of permanently attaching it to the wall.  My plan is to use a 1/4" ply backing board, then make 6" wide x 1/2" thick panels out of walnut and lay it out in a herringbone pattern going 18" to either side from center.  Finally I plan to trim out around it to cover the ply and give it a more finished look.  What would be the best way to attach the panel pieces to the backing ply?  Should I glue up each piece, laminating it to the plywood?  Use pin nails and no glue?  Both?  Would it be best to paint the ply behind it and leave a slight gap or can I push them right up next to each other?  I just want to make sure I don't have any wood movement issues or things like that.  Any help you can give would be appreciated and keep up the great work. Garrett

Episode 83 - HVLP Sprayers, Squeeze Out In Corners, Warped Bench Top & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Huy 1) Hey guys.  This is definitely more of a "beginner" question, but can you elaborate on how you determine what speed setting to use on your router?  Does it change depending on the hardness of the wood?  Or the type of grain you're routing?  Or maybe the size or particular profile of the bit?  Whether you're routing in a router table or freehand?  Plunging versus edge work?  I own the DeWalt (DW618PKB) plunge router with speed setting 1-6.  I always leave it on 6 and never think twice about it.  But I'm wondering if I could get better results (less tear out, less burning) if I pay more attention to the speed setting?  Thank you for all the interesting information every week.  Thank you!  Matt @WoodMillerDesigns 2) Hey everyone! Love the show. Have heard you talk about shellac for an initial coat or 2 of finish, then topped with something else such as a water or oil based poly. I know an only shellac finish can have clouding issues if someone leaves a drink on the surface, ie drink rings. I know shellac also could dissolve if an alcoholic beverage was spilled and not cleaned quickly. My question is:  would you still have these issues if you did 1-2 coats of shellac and then several top coats of water or oil based poly?  Or does the poly topcoat eliminate these shellac drawbacks? Ron   Sean 1) Hey there great podcasters! Just wanted to say after you kindly answered my question about grey streaky raindrop trails in my water-based poly finish (your suggestion was that I was using waxed shellac) that I did check what shellac I had used. Sure enough, it was waxed bullseye shellac! I had a can of the sealcoat de-waxed that I had finished and must have picked up the regular, waxed stuff by mistake. (I know, I know, I should mix up my own...) Thanks so much for your excellent deduction and help! Not sure if you're still in dire need of questions, but if you are, I have one you could use: are any of you making woodworked holiday presents this year? If so, what are you thinking? If not, what's the best small, wood-based gifts you've made for people in the past? 2) Second, in a separate conversation, I said I sanded 80, 120, 180, 220. My boss sands 100, 120, 150, 220. (We both sand 320 after the first two layers of finish and 400 is any further sanding is needed.)  When he heard that I went from 120 to 180 he said "I don't skip grits." Which didn't make sense to me because he "skips" 180. It made me think about all the advice on sanding I've heard. I always heard "proceed through the grits, don't rush, don't skip grits." But rarely does anyone mention a specific grit besides where they stop (which can be anywhere from 220 to 400). So where do you start and what are all of the grits you use? Mike   Guy 1) Heyy-o! I am a new woodworker and in the process of trying to get my shop together so I can start making custom pieces.  I am also a new listener. My  biggest question that I have searched and searched for and cannot seem to find a satisfactory answer is: How do I decide what type(s) of wood I should use for a project? I know that there is hardwood and softwood, but which is which and how do I know which to use and when?? How do I know what types of wood are paint grade or stain grade, or just clear finish grade?  It seems like everyone just skips over this, and doesn't really explain the differences. Your help on this would be awesome and super beneficial! Thanks, Daniel 2) Hey Guys, Looking for some direction on Slab style kitchen doors. I’ve got a small kitchen, walk in pantry and laundry room that needs some cabinets. My wife wants smooth style modern doors so they are easy to clean and wipe down.  And she wants them painted. I’ve made plenty of frame and panel doors but curious how you guys would tackle the construction of these. Is it just as easy as cutting up a sheet of MDF or Plywood laminating some edging and spraying them? Or would you make stave cores? Other details. These are full overlay doors, I think the tallest door might be 36” tall in the laundry room. But everything else is standard heights and widths for a kitchen. Thanks guys keep up the good work!! Jessee  

Episode 82 - Router Speed, Christmas Gifts, Hardwood of Softwood? & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1) My question is a little out of the ordinary and is about the mental side of woodworking. I have a fast paced, high pressure job that requires a lot of my time. That being said it has allowed me the luxury of jumping into the hobby with both feet and get some really good tools right off the bat. Probably a bad idea what what the hell. Lol. The down side of the job is it limits my time in the shop and also makes it hard to transition into the mindset for woodworking. I have to multitask and move quickly at work, traits that don’t lend themselves well to the hobby. Do you guys ever have trouble slowing/calming down when you are in the shop?  And if so how do you combat this.Thanks, Brian Wilson. 2) I was surprised to hear Guy say he wasn’t a fan of parallel clamps (and instead preferred pipe clamps due to their clamping pressure). They seem to be standard issue for every woodworker I see. Can I ask you all to share any other overrated (or underrated) woodworking tools? Danny   Huy 1) Hello, I have upgraded my table saw to a 3HP Powermatic 66 and was looking at building an outfeed table but seeing wood prices lately,  I am just going to use my old 1 1/2 HP contractor as the "outfeed" table with both saws pushed back to back making sure the miter slots don't interfere with each other. I'm trying to decide on what blades to get for the 2 saws. I see the work you guys do, so I was wondering which blades you would keep installed. Both saws have router tables, so any dado would be done with a router bit. Thanks for all the great podcast, I have been listening since #1- keep up the great work! Travis 2) Hey guys, thanks for putting out such a great podcast! I have been binge listening to the older shows and have heard several discussions on dust collection. Most of them have been focused on connection a large  hose to a smaller dust port and not getting the full performance from this collection. I don’t have a dust collector, just a DeWalt shop vac. Would you saw that some dust collection is better than no dust collection at all? Working on getting a bandsaw that has a 4 inch port, used green (not the newer blue paint job) Rikon 10-315 12” deluxe, and dust collector would be the next purchase after that. Do you think it would be fine to at least use the shop vac to help, or is this a waste of time? Tim Preach   Guy 1) Hello guys and Guy.  Wondering if you could give any recommendations for a table saw blades.  I purchased the Forrest WW2 10" 40T blade back in May, however it is on backorder until November.  Is there another blade you recommend that would be easier to find and use for the time being?  I'm currently running the SawStop PCS 3 hp and just have the standard SawStop blade that came with the saw. Thanks, Paul 2) Hi guys. For a walnut kitchen table, would you use conversion varnish or Arm-r-seal? I can spray if need be. - Ken    

Episode 81 - Kitchen Table Finish, Two Table Saws!?, Underrated Tools? & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1) If I wanted to try my hand at veneering my own panels, what set up process do you recommend? This would be an attempt to do it without diving in and purchasing what I hear you guys talk about as a vacuum bag. Is it even possible to veneer my own panels without a vacuum bag? Matthew 2) Hey guys thanks for a great podcast and for answering questions from all of us.  I have a question about planers.  I am looking to upgrade my lunch box planer to something that is better than what I have now (ridgid 12.5").  I had a 15" planer years ago and am wondering if I "need" a large planer (15-20") or would something like the Dewalt 735 work just fine?  Thanks for your input. Troy   Guy 1) Thanks to you all for the wonderful podcast. Really enjoy the way you discuss our (sometimes dumb) questions with great care. I appended my question to an earlier message, but I don't think it got answered. (If it did, please just re-direct me?) I was finishing up a console made of red oak lately with a couple coats of shellac followed by 3-4 coats of Total Boat Water-Based Poly. Again and again, I'd put on a coat of the poly that looked completely smooth only to come back to what looked like dirty grey raindrops with long tails -- not the look I was going for my beautiful sandy red oak piece! I was using a foam brush to apply. I didn't see any of these trails when I was putting on the finish. And it happened on both horizontal and vertical surfaces I finished. Is this a well known problem with water-based poly? Is it my brushes? But most importantly, is there a way to avoid it? I loathed having to sand it back and reapply. Also, while you're at it, is it worse to finish things vertically rather than horizontally because it the finish might collect and drip down? Thank you for your thoughts! (Oh, and tell Guy that he never needs to apologize for giving his "opinion". Frequently, it's not just an opinion but a position arrived at from lots of expert observation!) Adam Potthast 2) Hey guys, thanks for always producing such great content. My question is about dovetails for beginners. I’ve never done dovetails before, but recently purchased the Leigh through dovetail jig TD330 and am eager to get going. What tips, tricks, and general words of wisdom would you give someone who is just starting to work with dovetails? I know that’s super open-ended so here are a couple specific questions to get the juices flowing- I see that this jig can be used with a handheld router or a router table. Do you have a preferred method when making your dovetails? I’ve also heard people say to buy extra material when starting to work with dovetails, but how much extra? If I’m making a box, should I plan to buy enough materials for 6 sides (basically giving myself 2 extra box sides in case of screw-ups)? Thanks again for all the great shows. I’ve learned so much from you guys and really appreciate it. Billy   Huy 1) Hey guys! Quick question - I like to resaw turning blanks to make small boxes and they often come covered in wax (or something). When I receive them, should I scrape off the wax immediately and let them acclimate to the shop? Or wait until I'm ready to mill them? Also, what's the best way to do that? I was thinking skim-cuts on the table saw. Thanks!! Dan 2) Which type of router would you suggest for fitting to a router table? I imagine that if I buy a plunge or fixed type and mount it to a table and I can always take it out and use it handheld etc but with a motor body I can leave it set up and just purchase a plunge type as well ( more tools is always a good thing) -Geoff  

Episode 80 - Do I Really NEED A Large Planer?, Dovetail Tips, Milling Wax Blanks & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Guy 1) I am looking to build a new bench that will serve many functions.  It would be an outfeed table, assembly bench, finish bench, and anything else I see fit to use it for.  I am very intrigued with the Ron Paulk Smart bench design and will most likely go that route.  The big question comes down to what type of hold down/ clamping surface is best.  I see lots of people do numerous T-tracks and use all the new style clamps designed for this, but on the other end is the numerous dog holes like an MFT top.  I do currently have a track saw that I use a fair amount to break down items too unwieldy to use on my small contractor table saw.  Which design do you think is better and why.  If you choose the dog holes design is there any preference on 3/4" holes vs 20mm holes?  Great podcast and keep up the great work. -Chris 2) This may be more of a question for Guy, specifically. I've heard him mention Trans Tint Dye multiple times on the show. As a hobbyist, I've used Minwax oil based stains for quite a while, but I'm starting to understand why Guy dislikes it. Could y'all explain a bit deeper how you use Trans Tint Dye? After a bit of research, it looks like it comes concentrated and should be diluted before use. Just trying to understand a bit more about the product as it seems preferable over oil based stains. Also, do any of you have any experience with any water based stains? And would you still prefer a water based dye over a water based stain? -Josh 3) Thanks for the great show. The question portion is a great help. We had a house built 4 years ago and the cabinet, doors, and drawers were sprayed with conversion varnish. The leftover product was left with us for touch up. I was under the impression that conversion varnish had a very short shelf life and would not keep but the painter said that as long as it was sealed it would be fine. Something recently fell against 2 of the drawers and damaged the fronts. I repaired the damage and tried doing the touch up with the leftover paint and a brush and it was not good. A friend sprayed it for me with his gun and they look great. The problem is that they have a glossy look that we can live with but they are also a bit tacky. They were sprayed 3 weeks ago and there is still a slight tackiness to them. Is the problem the fact that conversion varnish does not keep and is bad? Will  it cure  or should I strip it, go to Sherwin Williams, get a product they sell to the public, and redo them? Thanks -Bob Smith   Huy 1) Hey guys I purchased a L-Fence from Ben Brunik.  So far I’ve used it for long bevels.  Do any of you use a L-Fence in your workflow?  If you do what other procedures is it good for? Thanks guys -Nate 2) Hey guys! I am a huge fan of the show. I’ve been listening for a few months now and as a novice wood worker I’ve been learning a lot. I’m generally in my shop alone I’m looking to build out a first aid kit. I’ve got the basic tweezers and alcohol I use pretty regularly. But I feel like having a proper first aid kit would make sense around all of the blades I've got going. I’ve been looking at tourniquets, something I absolutely hope I never have to use but just trying to be on top of safety. Love to know if you guys keep something nearby like that just in case god forbid something were to happen. Thank you for the great show, stay well! -Mohamed 3) I’m a newish woodworker and noticed that it’s hard to gauge the actual difficulty level in potential projects (maybe youtubers just make it all look easy). What are some projects you would suggest beginners avoid until they establish a larger skill set? Any that look harder or easier than they actually are? Thanks for the podcast and covering so many nooks and crannies of the craft, certainly a better and more entertaining resource than the many Woodworker 101 books out there. Tyler  

Episode 79 – The ULTIMATE Bench?, L-Fence's Are All The Rage, Beginner Projects & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1)Hi, I want to start using SketchUp and wondering if you guys had any tips on coming up to speed with the app? Did any of you take any training or know of some good video series? I'm fairly tech savvy, will be using Windows PC and Android devices. Thank you for your down to earth, real world views! By far the best podcast out there! Eric 2)Hello again, hope all is well. Perhaps this is somewhat of a tool true woodworkers would never use ,but I've always thought CNC machines are really cool and have always wanted to get one in my shop eventually to make custom signs, jigs, gifts and whatever more intricately detailed thing I couldn't do by hand. Have you guys ever used a CNC machine for anything at any point, or maybe more importantly, WOULD you ever use one? Why or why not? Keep up the great work with the podcast - Brendon.   Guy 1)Hey guys,  I'm working on building table tops for 4 or 5 pieces of living room furniture. I wanted to know if I should install something underneath the tops of the Coffee and console tables like 2 metal U channels to keep the tops flat? The coffee top will be about 4ft x 2ft and console top 2ft x 5 or 6ft. I'm using various hardwoods cut into long strips with different widths like a cutting board. My plan at the moment for the coffee top is to glue it up in 2 halves and use dowels to join the two. Also planning to use Z clips to secure the tops to the bases. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us, Matt in Alabama 2)I’ve tried making finger joints/box joints. I’ve bought the flat grind blades and used the common technique of making groove in a sled and then shifting the pieces over into the slot/shim that I’ve created. It starts out fine for boards less than 4”, but for boards greater than 4”, I can’t get them to fit just right. Either they won’t join together or they’re too loose. What am I doing wrong? I don’t want to have to remake the sled/jig, but will do so if it means I can get boards of any size to fit properly together? How do you guys go about making box joints? ChrisCustomWoodworks   Huy 1)I know it's best to plane, joint etc. with the grain (rubbing the cat from head to tail instead of tail to head). I have trouble determining which direction the grain is running. Any foolproof pointers? Thanks for the best woodworking podcast around! Great podcast - thanks for all the information! - Tim in North Carolina 2)Hi Guys from across the pond in the Uk! Love the podcast, the time in the shop is more enjoyable when I’m listening to you guys laugh and chat about your woodworking knowledge, it’s a great help and has answered so many of my questions already. I wanted to ask your advice on shaker cabinet doors. I make a lot of shaker doors for cabinets, alcove units and fitted wardrobes. The problem comes when painting. I don’t spray anything and use water based finishes. I use a water based wood primer undercoat and then a acrylic eggshell topcoat. I lay the doors flat and level on my bench, as soon as the first coat of undercoat goes on the door bows badly, it bows with the centre going away from you on the painted side. After about half an hour the undercoat has gone off enough for me to flip the door and paint the other side which then flattens the door back out but it sometimes doesn’t go back to what it should and also this just doesn’t feel great to me, with my straight edge the door is perfect after glue up/sanding but it’s never this good after painting. Any tips on what I could do/am missing when it comes to finishing these doors. Would love to hear from you guys and keep up the good work, love the show and keep producing great work! Thanks Mike @mgscarpentry  

Episode 78 – Robots In The Shop?, Getting Finger Joints Right, H2O Finish Warping Door Panels? & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1)Hi guys I'm in the market for a miter gauge for my table saw and really like the look of the Incra Miter 5000 but the cost over here in Australia is a bit on the high side ($700 plus postage). Ive started looking around at different manufacturers etc and the usual YouTube searching and I notice a lot of users using a miter gauge only as opposed to a sled with miter type options. Would you use a miter gauge only as opposed to a sled configuration. Thanks for the great podcast Geoff 2) I would like to make a assembly table top with dog holes just like the MFT basic. I already have an MFT table. Would it be possible to use my existing MFT table top as a template on a larger piece of 3/4 MDF? I was thinking of clamping it down somehow and pre drilling some holes and using my festool plunge router with a flush trim bit. Would this work and how would you do it with what kind of router bit? I see a lot of jigs made or bought online for this but if I already have a MFT table why not use it as a template - Anythony   Guy 1) Long-time podcast listener, thanks for the great content and helpful advice for woodworkers of all skill levels! I'm a few years into woodworking and have a 12 x 15 shop in my basement. No windows in the basement and my workshop is in the climate-controlled utility room with the finished basement just outside the workshop door. I make a variety of things such as boxes, crosses, shelves, trays, etc out of hardwoods, primarily walnut and curly maple. So far, my go-to finish has been a few coats of Shellac (Zinsser Sealcoat) finished with a coat of satin Arm-R-Seal. This finishing process can be a bit tedious, especially when making crosses and boxes that have lots of small crevices.  I'd love to settle on a finish that checks the following boxes: - Easy to apply - Isn't overly smelly, given my workshop location and lack of outside ventilation - Accentuates the beauty of the wood (e.g. highlights the figure in the curly maple, richness of color of the walnut). - Doesn't involve pre-finishing, if possible, as I'm lazy and often have some sanding and clean-up work to do after assembly. - Is quick from start to finish, as my workshop time is limited with 3 young kids and I want to spend as much of the shop time as possible making sawdust, not applying finish. - Easy to clean up. For example, I'd love to avoid spending 30 minutes cleaning a spray gun after using it. Also, I don't have a ton of space due to my Sawstop PCS 36" saw, router table, planer, drill press, etc. Should I keep with Shellac and Arm-R-Seal, or should I look at a spray option? And if a spray option, should I do an actual sprayer or buy rattle cans of finish? I'm open to recommendations. Thanks! Brian 2) Being 69 years old now, I find my reflexes, muscle control, eyesight etc. aren't quite as good as they used to be. Would it be, in your opinion, foolish to go to a SawStop table saw for the increased safety, when my Powermatic PM 2000 works fine. I realize there are other sources of hazards in the shop, but reducing one at the table saw is being considered. Thanks for the great podcast! Tim in North Carolina   Huy 1)Hi Guy, Huy, and Sean, love the podcast, I learn so much every episode. After only a year of woodworking, I've decided it's time to get my shop better organized. I'm going to start making a lumber cart, clamp racks, flip top tool stand, various storage cabinets, assembly table, etc. Most designs for these kinds of things call for plywood. But with plywood prices through the roof, I don't want to spend a ton of money on each thing. MDF prices are still high but seem a bit more reasonable. How can I determine when MDF can be substituted for plywood? And do you have any other tips for how to make shop furniture on the cheap with today's prices? Thanks, Matthew 2) Hey Guys, love your podcast; it’s one of the few woodworking podcasts out there that actually pushed me to be a better woodworker. Keep it coming. My question is this: I’m considering purchasing a dust extractor. I currently don’t any any Festool products, but I am considering the new Festool C15 dust extractor. (My budget doesn’t allow for the high prices of the other units with Bluetooth and since I dont own any other Festool products, I don’t see a reason to have any of the other units, but maybe someday). My current set up for my orbital sander, biscuit jointer, etc is a 4 gallon 5hp Dewalt shop vac with 90 CFM. I also have the vac and tools plugged into an I-socket auto switch which allows the vac to automatically turn on/off when I run my tools. I find that this set up does really well. With a price tag at $350, do you think it’s worth it in my situation to upgrade to a C15? What additional benefits do I gain from it that I don’t already have? - Scott  

Episode 77 – The ULTIMATE Finish , Sled? What Sled!, MDF For Shop Furniture? & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Huy 1) When using a hold-down clamp to prevent wood movement -for example on the Incra 5000 crosscut sled, I find that often the wood moves veers slightly as I tighten the knob to hold the clamp against the workpiece. Have you experienced the same? If so, how do you deal with it? Would adding some sandpaper to the bed of the jig potentially create other accuracy issues, you think? Great podcast - thanks for all the information! - Tim in North Carolina 2) What tool or machine do you use for something it’s not necessarily  intended for? ( I wanna hear more than I use every tool as a hammer haha.) For example:  buiscuit joiners are intended to align two boards but people also use them to make slots for Z clips. Or table saws to make cove cuts instead of a shaper. Etc. ) I’m curious to hear if you guys have any neat tricks up your sleeve?  As always love the podcast and keep up the great work.  Nick   Sean 1)With increasingly limited space in my workshop, how do you decide what scraps to get rid of, and which to keep?  Mark 2) I really hope all has been well with you all. It has been a while since I have wasted your time with a question for the podcast. I mean, come on, we all know how the answers that were getting from this podcast are as spot on as much as the MSRP of a new car. Anywho, I was wondering if any of you use your woodworking tools for other materials other than wood. I have always been weary of using my table saw or bandsaw and such for cutting things like acrylic or even aluminum sheets. Since I have made the router sleds I have found myself more and more using my woodworking equipment to cut those two materials in particular. Now, I do not use my expensive woodworking blades for this purpose but I was just curious if any of you have used your equipment for different materials. Thanks a bunch for wasting your time to keep my interests peaked just enough to listen to every episode in hopes that one day I’ll learn something. Brent Jarvis Clean Cut Woodworking   Guy 1) I have a makita corded track saw that I've had for about 4 years. I don't have a table saw, so the track saw is probably my most used power tool, and I'm really relying on it to give me straight, finished cuts I can reference from. Recently I was cutting some Baltic birch for a jig where squareness of the panels is critical, so I was checking every cut afterwards. I found that my track saw was not cutting straight. I haven't put A ruler to it, but it might be 1/64 or maybe 1/32 out over 4 feet. I took everything apart, cleaned sawdust out of every nook, cleaned the grippy strips on the track, cleaned and waxed the top of the track, cleaned the blade, tightened the track snuggers. I checked the back edge of the track against my straight edge, and that appears straight.   Do you guys have any suggestions? The blade I have on it is more than 2 years old, so I ordered a new one. if that doesn't help, I can reach out to makita about how to check and adjust the blade for squareness relative to the track slot on the saw base. If none of that works, I'll probably order a 55 inch festool guide rail (Amazon reviews say they work interchangabley with the Makita saw).   Anyway, I find this very frustrating, but I'm glad to have a reason to write in! I love the show, thank you all! - Jonathan 2) I am going to be making a 72”w x 14”h x 14”d credenza with a mitered waterfall edge out of walnut with a finished thickness of 3/4”. (All four corners mitered) There will be 3-4 drawers in it.  My initial thoughts were to do it out of solid wood but I am now wondering if using walnut plywood would be a better choice as it is more stable than solid wood. I plan to use a domino to join my edges but not really sure how to account for wood movement on a large mitered box.  Love the podcast and have learned a lot from you guys, please keep it coming! Lindsey

Episode 76 – Tracksaw Cutting Straight,Scraps? What SCRAPS! , Woodworking Tools Used for WHAT?, & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1)It seems that no matter what I try its hard to make great mitre cuts.  I have a sawstop with a Osborne mitre gauge,  an older radial arm saw (70's craftsman) that I've tried the broken fence technique on and I seem to still have trouble with mitres.  I do all kids of woodworking from segmented bowls (though rarely) to picture frames to simpler miters.  It always seems to have issues.  Is the solution the Kapex? if its really amazing (as the domino is) I'll spend the money but is there a better less costly solution?  You guys are awesome! thanks, Dan 2) My question is concerning marking gauges, a lot of suggested beginners kits include some sort of marking gauge. When watching youtube very rarely do you see a marking gauge, and even more rare is someone that is putting one to use. While I understand what a marking gauge is and how it functions, i don't see a place it in my workflow. Do you, gentlemen use marking gauges commonly in your workflow, and if you do when do you use them?   As a related question, do you guys use marking knives? I understand marking knives will give you more accurate results but again rarely do you see YouTubers using marking knives. -Jim   Guy 1) Gentlemen I greatly enjoy your podcast.  I have a question about stain.  I just finished a large dining table and like most other projects I’m very disappointed in how the finish turned out.  The table is red oak and I stained it a medium brown followed by three coats of General Finish   Armor Seal Satin    .   I don’t go cheap on stain, I forget the brand of stain but it was $35 per quart and was custom mixed at my lumber supplier.  Is there any tricks that you guys can recommend to get a more even end product?  The top is six boards that are different grain patterns so maybe I’m expecting too much. Also Guy I heard your comment a few episodes back about only using pipe clamps and kind of snickered but in gluing up this table top which is 7’ x 42” my Besseys couldn’t begin to compare with the old reliable pipe clamps.  I used dominoes for alignment purposes and it took a pretty good squeeze to pull everything together.  I’m a believer. -Tom 2) Hello again (you said you needed questions so submitting a second today) Like most woodworkers, I started out with pre-milled lumber at mostly 3/4 inch. Once I got a planer, I found myself often planing lumber down for aesthetic reasons. I make mostly smaller projects, and 3/4 is just too thick for my tastes. My question is, beyond looks, when do you worry about thickness choice? Is there a weight determiner, length of boards, etc. Ever made a mistake and went too thin to suffer later? As a slight followup, do you ever purposely buy thicker material with the anticipation of re-sawing over planing down (like from 3/4 to 1/2") and just wasting material? Peter          Huy 1) Hey guys, love listening to the podcast and was hoping you could help me out with a problem I ran into. I put a nice new glue line saw blade on my table saw and when I went to switch out the blade to my multi purpose, I physically can’t get the blade off the arbor. It is not the arbor nut, that was removed easily, it is the blade itself that is stuck on the arbor. Has this ever happened to any of you and what would be your solution. I have been thinking about heating up the blade to expand it off the arbor but wanted to see if you had any other options. Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again for the awesome podcast!! Seanvella designs 2) Hey guys, Have any of you taken a chance on wood species that are uncommon both in wood working and lumber yards. Their are many local species in my area (north Arkansas) that I could get, but wonder if people don't use them because there garbage or their just not good for commercial sales. Some of the trees are black gum, Osage, paw paw, pecan, cotton wood, dogwood  Tyler    

Episode 75 – Marking Gauge, Straining Consistencies, Tight Blades, & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1) Second question: This question is for Sean, mostly. I'm getting ready to make a blanket chest with frame-and-panel front, sides, and back, out of cherry and walnut, but the recipient wants the wood from a single source. So for the first time I'll be making the internal panels out of resawn cherry rather than plywood. I remember that you said you had a problem with trapped hardwood panels in a set of end tables (I think?) you made for your parents a while back. I can't quite find the episode, but I was wondering what how you would go about doing hardwood panels for a frame-and-panel cabinet now -- what would you do differently to keep the wood movement under control? Any tips for making thinner, 1/2 inch panels in general? Thank you all -- I love supporting such a great conversation. Adam 2) Hi guys! Another quick question - I'm making a small table and the base will be ash, ebonized with India ink. What would be a good choice for topcoat over the India ink? I was thinking of using a water-based poly, but it seems to "reactivate" the ink. Maybe shellac would be fine? Thanks!! Dan   Huy 1)I was recently setting up to rip 60 facets to create a hexagonal column that is 1.5 inches across the flats. I have a right tilting arbor on my table saw. With my rip fence on the right side of the blade the blade tilts toward the fence. This would mean the top facet would be cut with that geometry and the the work piece would be pinched against the fence. I could move the fence to the other side which would allow me to cut the bottom facet and the work piece would not be pinched against the fence. I have never ripped on the left side of my blade. I ultimately decided to do this on the bandsaw which worked fine.   This brought up the question as to which is the preferred tilt direction for the table saw? Do we need one of each or is one direction more useful than the other. I would like to know your thoughts about this.   Thanks,   Dave Pollatta Ontario, New York 2) I rarely hear mention of woods like Cumaru and Ipe for exterior use in articles, podcast or see it used by woodworkers I follow on social media, is there a reason? Weight and hardness Im sure factor into the decision as they can be difficult to work, but are they still worth a mention?   Guy 1) Question: I prefer 3/16” solid wood edge banding over the veneer, have to ask your opinion? Harder to install, but better I think. Glenn 2) Hey guys! First off, I have to say, glad to have fellow metalheads in the woodworking community! I wanted to follow up on something good ole' Guy said a while back about how he makes his own Danish Oil. Poly, BLO, and.... Naphtha? The Naphtha threw me for a loop seeing as how every YouTube video says to use Mineral Spirits. Well, I gave it a side-by-side test and yep, I liked Naphtha better! Good call! So, my question is, what other chemical tricks do you guys have up your sleeve? Anything out of the ordinary novice woodworkers may not know? I pretty much have one of each and only a little used from each. So I'm looking for inspiration! And lastly, we all hear the combustible chemicals need to be stored in a metal cabinet. Why? It'd have to cram in next to all my other wooden shop cabinets anyway. Keep up the great work! Paul  

Episode 74 – Chemical Tricks, Outdoor Lumber, Frame & Panel Glue-up, & MUCH More!

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